For the past few years I’ve really wanted to hike down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, sleep a few hours, and then turn around and hike back out. I’m not even really sure when this goal became a goal because it’s definitely outside my normal parameters. Last Fall my friend Bob and I decided that it was time to actually do what we had been talking about. He’s done it a few times before and I’ve hiked with him a lot so going with him seemed like the best way for me to accomplish this! About four months ago we got our Backcountry Permit & started really training.
Our plan was to head up to the little town outside of Grand Canyon National Park the night before our hike, spend the night, hike down the South Kaibab trail, sleep at Bright Angel Campground, and hike out the Bright Angel Trail the next day. So Wednesday afternoon we headed out after months of training and planning.
Thursday morning we got up bright & early for some breakfast, I think this is the first time it really started to sink in what I was about to do. I had been nervous and excited leading up to this point but it was a little different, a little bit more intense, as the time got closer to our planned start time. Once we got in the park we parked our car at the trailhead we would be coming out of the next day and took the shuttle over to our starting point.
It took about an hour of hiking before my nerves really calmed down. Overall, hiking down was not as challenging as I thought it would be but every switchback we turned through was one more that I knew I’d have to climb through the next day and it took me a little while to stop worrying about whether or not I was ready physically to hike back out.
On the way down it started to get hot with about an hour left in our hike. This worked out perfectly because about a quarter mile before camp there is a TUNNEL that leads to a VERY LONG BRIDGE that goes across the HUGE COLORADO RIVER! So there’s like 3 reasons to turn around and go home. I saw the bridge and tunnel several miles before we got there and I swear that bridge and tunnel is the reason I tripped over a railroad tie and split my knee open!
Anyway….by the time we got to the tunnel and bridge we’d been hiking just over three hours and it was 101 degrees outside. My quads were so tired that they were actually shaking, all I wanted to do was take my pack off and if I had to cross that bridge to do it that’s what I was going to do! It actually wasn’t that bad, we hung out for awhile because there was a really nice breeze!
We hiked about another quarter mile and picked out our campsite. We made it down in 3 hours and 25 minutes. My pack weighed around 45 pounds, maybe a little less, which is about 5 – 10 pounds more than I wanted to carry. As it turns out I used everything in my pack. The only thing I could have changed is I could have brought less food. Other than that – I had exactly what I needed so I guess that’s my pack weight!
Once we set up camp we had a lot of free time to fill! We hung out in the river, hung out at the canteen and drank lemonade until we were both sick, made fun of people that rode a mule down there and had on white button down shirts with belts and fancy shoes, tried to take a nap but it was so hot we stuck to our sleeping bags, visited the mules, and generally hung out. By 9:00 it was lights out! Literally…it was really dark out!
When I climbed into my tent I’m not going to lie, I was kind of scared. I’ve never slept in a tent all by myself, especially one that is completely open to the night sky. It didn’t help that there were bats flying ALL over the place! But once I got in my tent, laid down and put in my iPod – it was so amazing! The stars were so beautiful. Just that alone – seeing the beautiful night sky – was worth the journey!
I slept pretty good considering and we were back up at 5:00 to pack up and head out. We left Bright Angel right at 6:00 AM and we both guessed it would take us about five hours to get out of the canyon….or at least that was our goal. The hike out is easily broken into 3 sections. From the campground it’s 4.8 miles to the next campground, Indian Gardens. From there it’s 4.5 miles to the top – there is a shade structure with water 1.5 miles from Indian Garden, and another shade structure with water 1.5 miles after that – then you are done. Sounds easy, right? Get to Indian Gardens in the cool morning,break up the rest of the hike with some breaks in the shade with fresh water.
Not so much. Which is to say easier said than done.
Bright Angel trail is beautiful – it follows the Colorado River for about a mile then it u-turns into a shady, cool canyon. About two miles into the hike it starts to switchback and really climb. Somewhere in the last steep climb I did something to my knee. At first I didn’t say anything because I figured it would just work itself out, plus saying it out loud sometimes makes it worse so I just kept hiking. Eventually, however, the pain in my knee got to the point where I couldn’t walk. We found a spot where I could lay down and elevate my leg. I took a whole bunch of ibuprofen and laid there waiting for something to happen. After about 30 minutes I decided that it would better for us to get to Indian Garden. There’s a ranger there, water, campsites, etc. I figured if my knee didn’t chill out at least I’d be able to spend the night at Indian Garden and hike the rest of the way they next day.
That definitely turned out to be a good decision. After some hiking the ibuprofen kicked in and the pain became manageable. After we got cold, fresh water and ate some food at Indian Garden I definitely felt like I could finish the hike. Granted, by the end of the day I probably took 30 ibuprofen but at least my knee felt better! We made it to the 3 mile shade structure in pretty good time. We rested for about 15 minutes, got fresh water and headed out for the next shade structure.
It’s crazy how long 3 miles can go on! By this time thanks to the slow final few miles to Indian Garden there was no way we were going to make our 5 hour goal. It was starting to get really hot. By the time we got to the 1.5 mile shade structure we were both ready to be done! We rested for almost 30 minutes, ate some food and headed out for our final leg! The last 1.5 miles was so challenging! My knee wasn’t feeling great and it was getting really hot out! Thankfully there is a lot of shade on this trail and we took advantage of it! At one point we were stopped in the shade and my back was to the trail and I could hear like a whirring noise….like something was flying through the air. Well, that’s probably because something was! Either a rock got kicked off the edge or maybe someone threw one…but a rock was airborne and guess what stopped its descent into the abyss I was trying to climb out of? My right tricep, that’s what! Umm…it hurt. Badly. I swore. Out loud. In front of small children.
It was about at this point that I got kind of mad at the universe. My hiking partner Bob looked over at me and said something I will probably never forget. ”Jaelene honey….this hike is hard enough, you can stop trying to make it harder!” It didn’t bother me when I fell and cut my knee open. It didn’t bother me when I hurt my knee and totally messed up my goal, but when a random stupid rock came flying through the air and landed on me – I got really mad. Like mad enough that I actually got enough energy to finish my hike! Enough with the optional “let’s see what she can overcome” hiking plan. The last mile was probably only accomplished because I was really mad. And super determined. And because a really nice family from Charleston, South Carolina offered some really nice words of encouragement and waited for me at the last turn to say congratulations. And because my hiking partner is awesome. And because I knew lots of people at home were thinking of me and wishing me well. And because I couldn’t wait to call my parents and tell them I did it.
We walked up the final stupid switchback and stopped the clock at six hours and thirty minutes exactly. An hour and a half longer than I wanted but I don’t really care about that. I sat down on a rock, cried for a second, texted my parents, and took off my boots. And it was done.
Since I got home lots of people have asked me if it was worth it. My calves are sore in a way I can’t explain. Three of my toenails have huge blisters under them and are probably going to fall off. I’m not going to be able to carry my kids to bed for about a week. If I bite into another Cliff bar in the next month I will probably throw up. I’m not going to get all existential and say I came out a different person than I went in or that I found the answer to any of my life questions. But if the question is Can Jaelene carry all her crap seven miles down to the Colorado River, set up and sleep in her own tent, live on protein bars and licorice, overcome extra special amounts of physical pain and carry all of her crap almost ten miles back out just to figure out that she can stop making life more complicated than it already is….the answer to that is yes, yes she certainly can.
It was worth it. I would do it again tomorrow if my toenail blisters would stop oozing. I know…it’s gross.
I’ve posted some pictures in the picture album – it was so hard picking pictures! Lots of you offered me good lucks & congratulations and I so appreciate that! I wasn’t kidding when I said that being able to get to the top and tell my parents I made it was a huge motivator for me. I texted my mom as soon as I could function and within minutes she called me. My mom and dad were so excited for me! That was almost as awesome as finishing!
Now to rest for a few months before I start training for my next big adventure…….Twenty Five miles – North Rim to South Rim in a day. =0 No problem. Hopefully.